Friday, May 30, 2008
Of Rio de Janeiro, seen through the eyes of the Naughty
Monday, March 31, 2008
Two weeks in Rio
So there you go, that is exactly why I'm here right now :)
Thanks a mil to Txarlie and Roque for taking me to the stadium, I'm starting to develop a taste for it :)
Saturday, March 15, 2008
A month on the run
I'm finally back in Rio de Janeiro and I have been since last tuesday.I'm not sure why I'm writing this since nobody is going to read it, I guess it's the modern version of a diary.
It was a colourful last month, I was in Genova, London, Listowel, Dublin and Madrid, and you probably know this as I've pretty much met everyone I know except for my friends in Genova, who seem to be working hard at ignoring me since I broke up with Raffa.
But such is life, let bygones be bygones my accounting teacher used to say so I will follow his advice.
It was a wonderful time, Genova was great, got to see some friends, London was hilarious, specially the nights out with Matt and that infamous night, 2 days before Patty's exam when Gasta, Chapis and I hit the bars and ended up discussing sociology at Gasta's house at 5am.Thanks for the bed Gasta, I'll get ou back here in Rio :)
So on we get to Listowel, my grandmother unfortunately has been pretty ill lately, but she seems to be getting better, it's hard when you're 84 year young, but nobody ever accused her of being the kind of lass that gives up. Here the night life was also interesting, specially when Matte, Ned, Mike and Billy were down and ironically we spent the night with Sarah and two brothers who's names I know but cannot spell for the life of me, in a real old school pub where old men danced and sang, reminiscing a time when you had to milk your own cow and the queen was not welcome on the emerald isle.
So, one week spending quality time with my mum & grandmother later and off I went for the last few days of cold weather in Europe in the wonderful Madrid. So, to make the pain easiest here we go. Madrid is beautiful, the weather is wonderful, the women and my best friend all seem to live there.
So I crashed at Peter's house for what was supposed to be 3 night, spent my days walking around the city, meeting friends and ex girlfriends and being allover merry about everything.One night in particular stood out when we hit the bars with a Naughtie Hottie revamp, bringing together once again the guest list from Costa Rica, starring Cata, Maria and Txarlie. Joining the fun with international representation were Mariana, representing US and Spain, Bou representing Burgos, Sofia for Madrid, and Peter representing some Hungary, Finland and Colombia.
So with 50% of the UN covered we started with a concert and ended up with a blur. The night took its casualties and finally only Bou, Txarlie, Cata and I remained to hold the fort. I got home at 5am, went to sleep and ended up, one hour later, looking for the bathroom which brought me into the wrong room. So at 6 am as I was looking for the light switch I hear voices from just nearby asking who the hell was in their room... a quick apology and a pit-stop later and I was back in bed snoring happily.
Perl of the trip though was meeting Marta again. After 4 years since we broke up and without hearing her voice, we met up again and it was wonderful. It was quite an amazing experience, many people say that you should never meet up with your first love but this wasn't the case. Marta is the same happy bubbily person that I remembered, I am glad we waited so long to meet up again because I truly found a friend that knows me like few others!
So guys, thanks to all of you.Aazir, Maurizio, Ema, Elena, Gian, Massi, Paolona, Matteo, Carmen, Paolo and Sara for Genova.Matt, Ned, Chapis, Gasta, Iain and Angela for London.Mum, Gran, Mike, Billy, sarah, Unpronounceable brothers, James, John and Will for Dublin.Peter, Rocio, Txarlie, Cata, Maria, Mariana, Bou, Inigo, Palomita, Ana, Pablo and specially Marta for Madrid.
To see all of these names listed out here makes me wonder why I want to leave, but then I set out from the ancient continent of Europe and upon landing on the golden, jungle-coated shores of latin America my question is answered. I am happy here and now, perhaps I won't be for long, but here and now I am. I love the feeling this part of the world has, the joy in the Cariocas and I will try to make this my home.
And you are all invited.
It wasn't an easy trip, but I'll tell you about that next time round. Ciao!
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
Beija-Flor has won!! WOOOOO!!!
I'll be dancing and singing their song all week!
Woooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Of Rio de Janeiro, A Cidade Maravilhosa and the Carneval
So I've arrived amongst the lush vegetation framed by montains and ocean that is the wonderful Rio de Janeiro and I couldn't have chosen a better time, because the Carneval has just started.
The fattest kid in town has been named king of the Carnival, and together with two godesses who are elected the Queen and Princess of the Carneval they have received the keys of the city and the party has begun.
The city is vibrating to the sound of samba, but to more degrees than just meets the eyes. There is an electricity in the Air, an underground vibration that seems to go unobserved by many people who have travelled here just for the party.
I cannot expect to understand it but I have started to think of myself as an adopted child of this city. There is a pride in the voice of the cariocas when they talk about the Carnival.
On Sunday we decided to go search for a ticket for the monday night and whilst we were at it we met up with some friends of Achille's.Two of these had been judges of the Carnival at some stage, so they were experts in all that was Carneval.
So we roamed the streets outside the Sambodromo and scored every detail of each float whilst chewing on Grilled Cheese, Hot Dogs and sipping cokes and beers.It was a great night, at the end we found a Stage 1 ticket and I was psychologically ready to attack the Carneval the next day.
But first let me explain how the Carnival works, because I imagine many (as didi I), just think of it of a state-promoted attraction for tourists and alike. Boy is this off the mark!
The carnival is a competition amongst the schools of Samba, and its not for the faint hearted either. Each school prepares a theme and a song (samba naturally). Then the school creates the floats, the Fantasias (costumes), prepares the Batteria (the band) and sends out offers to famous and beautiful samba-loving women to act as Madrine (godmothers) to the various sections of the parade.
The parade lasts 2 nights, each night 6 samba schools parade, they have 50 minutes from when the parade starts to when it ends for all of its people and floats to be on the Avenida, which is the road that runs through the Sambodromo, the immense concrete structure that was designed and built specifically for the Rio Carneval and which accomodates some 200,000+ people.
Each samba school has somewhere between 6 and 8 of the most spectacular floats in the world, with people dancing from top to bottom. Between the floats there are Alas (wings), which consist of people dressed with a particular costume and which all dance to the rythm of the Batteria; but don't think that this is the Moskow ballet, the paraders must move at a specific speed, to make sure that no time is wasted, but that the 50 minute time limit is not overtaken; but apart from that it's wonderfully original and democratic, with everyone dancing in their own style and fashion.
Not the kind of place you want to be if you've been substance abusing...
It sounds chaotic but it's not, its amazing, everyone has a favourite school, but everyone cheers for everyone. At the end of each school huge handfuls of flags of the following school are handed out and people wave with eagerness as if they were born and bred there.
Schools are massive things, the costs of the floats is recovered by selling the Fantasias to people that want to parade, and also by selling places on the floats. In fact it is a social symbol to be on a float as it is an indication of wealth. The only people that do not have to pay for the pleasure of parading are the women that during the year make the Fantasias, and they have a place of honour in the parade with some of the most beautiful and colorful costumes.
So, the Batteria plays on, half the floats and parade walk by, then the Batteria, with the Godmother, move out and start walking down the Avenida, then the other half of the parade follows suit and they parade until the last float closes the line and the Avenida is cleaned up in prepartion for the next school.
But is it all so simple? Of course not, the Floats, for majestic and wonderful such that they are are mechanical, built in pretty much a rush (they have about 6 months to make them and many can be seen getting a finishing touch just as they enter the Avenida), and well, they're made in Brasil... So the result is that they are the huge, friendly, living giants of parade and just like living creatures they move too quickly, too slowly, they stop and break down. All this made more interesting by the fact that the driver cannot actually see where he is going.
The first float of Grande Rio, and one of the most amazing!
Some of the floats are so massive that they cannot turn into the Sambodromo, so they are brought onto the Avenida in two pieces and then assembled on the fly. Others we saw broke down entering the and had to be pushed by hand, one other's steering broke and they had to perform a Austin Powers-like manouvre back and forth to get a 10 ton behemoth into the Avenida with limited steering. Whilst this is going on, the parade cannot wait so there is an increasing gap between the parade and the problematic float. This is one of the best moments of the parade because no float is quite as good as a problematic one.
Just like a problem child, everyone loves the float that breaks down
People cheer their hearts out when a damaged or delayed float finally starts moving and catches up with the parade, its a wonderful sight.
So what about the people watching? One could say that they are faithful to Samba and to the previous winners. They or should I say we, danced all night, from 9 pm when Padre Miguel entered the Avenida till 5 am when the last float from Beija-Flor streamed by.
Amazingly there is not a single person of the 200,000+ smoking joints or cigarrets, or drunk, people just drink a couple of cokes, a beer or two, a few bottles of water and then dance and dance and sing. Sing? Yeah, because the schools publish the songs and play them on the radio weeks before the show, moreover they print a booklet with the songs of all of the schools, so you can just read the straight off the page and sing with everyone else, even with a limited knowledge of the Portuguese :P Each song lasts about 3-4 minutes and loops for the entire hour or so of the school's parade.
She turned around as I was taking the pic, so she deserves a mention
Here's my list
Best Batteria: Padre Miguel
Best Theme: Villa Isabel
Best Song: Imperatriz
Best Broken Float: Villa Isabel
Best Float: 1st float of Grande Rio
Best Over All: Beija-Flor
Most Crowd Inspiring: Beija-Flor
Lets see who wins (Go Beija-Flor or Grande Rio!!)
Of Panama, Bocas del Toro, Panama City and final adventures
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Of Costa Rica, losing some, finding some and nearly killing some other
The night after the rafting was amazing, Txarlie turned up completely unchanged after 4 years and it was a fantastic reunion.
We decided to celebrate the only night as 7 of us together and joined by Margot for the special event, and we opened the bottle of 23 year old Zacapa that I had received from the guys, Teresa and Christina on my birthday in lake Atitlan. The bottle traveled across of almost all of Central America and it was sure worth the wait, Zacapa is officially the best rhum on the planet!
We finish it off whilst chatting about music, new places and old memories, and head out to test the local music scene.
The night was fantastic, we danced to the sound of some lame raggaeton and then decided to extend our own party by driving the Naughty just out of the Hostel and drink rhum till dawn in company of Maria, Catalina, Margot, Txarlie, Natxo, Jose, David, Roque and of course the Naughty.
The entire gangs, left to right, Jose, Margot, David, Roque, Cata, Natxo, myself, Bianca and the Naughty
It was a hilarious night, we stayed up to bid Maria a sad farewell and after that, since sleep did not appear to be an option, we reache a time around 9 am when Txarlie, Natxo, Roque and I decided that we should go to a neighbouring town and find the founder of Calypso. This genious is a 95 year old man that has been living his entire life as a musician on the caribbean. We arrived at his house and he wasn't at home, so we were instructed by the neighbours that he may be having breakfast at a nearby restaurant.
We arrived there and thankfully he was nowhere to be found. Thankfully because the sight of 4 very unsober youngsters turning up at his breakfast would probably have been sufficient to finish off the musical talent.
We had some breakfast and headed back to bed. The two days ware spent in the company of Txarlie, naturally with a night of delirium and then we bid Txarlie farewell after a great footie match of Real Madrid and a dip into the Carribean.
At this point we were joined by the latest member of the trip, Bianca, all the way from Switzerland. We had a last meal together, bid the wonderful Cata farewell with tears in our eyes, and head out to cross the border to Panama, on our last stretch.
The amazing border between Costa Rica and Panama
We drove across the world's funkiest border and arrived just before 6 which is closing time at the offices. The result was the fastest boarding crossing in the world.
We settled down in the first town and woke up early next morning for a little shopping spree, and a boat ride into the delirious abyss of Bocas del Toro.